It’s no secret that Tudor’s Black Bay has been one among its most profitable collections in latest instances, and the success of the Fifty-Eight sub-family inside that assortment has been evident since its launch in 2018. Final yr, capitalizing upon this success, Tudor unveiled a brand new blue variation of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight to a lot fanfare, and this week at Watches & Wonders the model has as soon as once more revisited the design, releasing two new variations in precious-metal circumstances.
The duo is comprised of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K, a brand new 18K yellow gold model of the watch with a inexperienced dial; and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925, a taupe-dialed mannequin that sports activities a uncommon, tarnish-resistant 925 sterling silver case. Collectively, the 2 releases display Tudor’s continued curiosity in increasing the Black Bay Fifty-Eight line whereas additionally signaling a raised curiosity in incorporating extra luxurious fashions into the road. Followers of the Black Bay will recognize that the 2 precious-metal circumstances nonetheless maintain the sturdy 200-meter water resistance and the core, strong divers’ design as their metal predecessors.
Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K
Turning first to the all-gold version, its strong 39-mm 18K yellow-gold case has a big, vintage-inspired, signed crown on its proper facet, giant lugs, and a matte inexperienced 60-minute unidirectional diving bezel. Contrasting with types extra generally present in gold watches, Tudor opted for fully satin ending fr its case slightly than extra conventional sharpening; the result’s that the mannequin options each a sportier and extra unorthodox look.
The “inexperienced gold” dial underneath the sapphire crystal matches the colour seen on the bezel (now one thing of a signature for the Fifty-Eight editions, having been beforehand seen within the 2020 blue version). The watch’s total look follows the design of earlier Black Bays, exterior of some shade modifications: an outer minute ring, utilized and luminous hour markers in varied shapes, and a set of “snowflake” palms on the middle of the dial to inform the time. After all, this watch’s palms are manufactured from a case-matching 18K yellow gold, in contrast to the standard metal used within the different watches inside the assortment.
On the flip facet, we discover essentially the most important change to the bottom Fifty-Eight design, exterior of the usage of gold, specifically as exhibition caseback displaying the Tudor manufacture caliber MT5400. Tudor, in addition to its sister model Rolex, have an extended historical past of avoiding the usage of exhibition casebacks of their fashions, so the usage of one right here is important. Talking extra to the precise motion inside the watch, the automated caliber MT5400 has a frequency of 28,800 vph, hosts a prolonged energy reserve of 70 hours, and boasts a COSC chronometer certification. The motion seems to be to be pretty evenly completed, upholding the utilitarian fashion of the Black Bay, however seems a contact extra luxurious right here, as it’s framed in gold.
Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925
The opposite half of the dear steel duo, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925. makes use of basically the identical design because the 18K, in addition to all earlier Fifty-Eight fashions, however is notable for its namesake 925 silver case (an alloy with 92.5 p.c silver), its taupe-colored bezel and matching taupe dial, and — like its sibling — an exhibition caseback displaying the Caliber MT5400.
Price noting in regards to the 925 is its use of 925 sterling silver for its case building. Tudor claims the alloy is tarnish-resistant, extra particularly stating that “the properties of this alloy are such that use doesn’t have an effect on the looks of the case of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925.” The corporate goes on to additional state that the case “possesses an surprising incandescent brilliance” main it a “treasured aura” that’s “greatest… admired on the wrist.”
The declare is fascinating, as 925 sterling silver is notoriously tarnish-prone, ensuing from the small quantity of copper usually used alongside the pure silver to supply the alloy. So, to ensure that the case to take care of its brilliance over time, the model have to be utilizing a special steel (or metals) inside the alloy exterior of copper to take action, or may conversely be utilizing some unmentioned coating on the case. In both case, its brilliance as in comparison with metal stays to be seen, so look out for a hands-on assessment quickly.
Pricing and Availability
Each the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K and 925 can be found now through licensed boutiques, with the all-gold version priced on the high of Tudor’s catalog at $16,800, and the silver mannequin marked extra affordably at $4,300, or about $600 greater than the costliest metal variation of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
To be taught extra, go to Tudor, here.